Most likely it is indeed the PSU not being able to deliver the wattage that it advertised for. Or as you mentioned it could easily just be that you have a defective PSU or in the case it out of warranty it aging out. As PSUs do age over time and loses efficiency and it's potential output over time of it lifespan.
Try going for a newer more higher grade PSU and see if that's helps.
I recently upgraded my rig with a new EVGA gtx 1070 ftw, from a gigabyte gtx 960. When i installed the card the psu started making a relatively loud clicking noise (which was making before the upgrading as well, but lower), which i initially ignored and proceeded with testing the card.
I specifically ran GTA V for about an hour at full settings with out any issues and smooth fps(but the clicking sound got louder). I then exited the game, tried to run Doom, but the game didnt detected my card. I exited the game, then tried to launch GTA again, and the pc shut down. I tried powering on the pc again and the video card didnt turn on and didnt give any signal to the monitor at all. I installed my previous card (gtx 960)and all went back to normal. I installed again the new card (1070) and everything was normal as well, and the pc powering on normally.
What went wrong? I am suspecting its the psu which always makes that clicking sound when under heavy load, specially with the new card. I have ordered a new psu EVGA 640W G2 which i think it will be ok but im not sure if its the psu the issue. Also im not sure whether any parts got damaged or whether I should attend turning the pc on again, until the new psu is installed.
I would appreciate any suggestions on what might gone wrong and how to resolve this.
Below are my specs:
Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Asus H97-PLUS ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card
Fractal Design Define R4 Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case
Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Looking at this build, I see a number of ways to cut costs and optimize performance without having to downgrade the CPU, which I wouldn't recommend doing.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£190.99 @ CCL Computers) Motherboard: MSI H110M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£59.69 @ CCL Computers) Memory: PNY Anarchy 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£39.55 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£43.95 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 470 4GB Triple X Video Card (£170.99 @ Amazon UK) Case: Aerocool Aero-800 ATX Mid Tower Case (£52.10 @ Kustom PCs) Power Supply: XFX XT 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£45.94 @ CCL Computers) Total: £603.21 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-21 14:26 GMT+0000
Firstly, I changed the CPU for the latest Kaby Lake version as the price difference is neglible, but you get a slightly higher clock speed and all the other advantages Kaby Lake entails, such as 4K Netflix. Then, I swapped out the RAM for an equally priced dual-channel kit which will ensure best memory performance in various applications and games. I reduced the cost of the motherboard by slightly downgrading to an H110 chipset, yes, it is microATX, but for a budget gaming-focused build this will not really change anything.
Moving on, I decided to change out the GPU from the 4GB RX 480 to the 4GB RX 470, my justification is that performance difference between the two is generally less than 10% at 1080p, which I assume is the resolution you're targeting. Generally speaking, you should typically either go for a 4GB RX 470 for 1080p or a full step up to the 8GB RX 480 for 1440p. Either way, this adds up to a roughly £40 savings by itself. Finally, I changed out the PSU for a bronze-rated, non-modular unit. Yes, this will be a bit less efficient but at a price difference of roughly £30 I believe it is a worthy tradeoff.
All of these changes together bring the total price down to just over £600 without sacrificing much in gaming performance.
I apologize for the late response. I should really be more active in the forums.
Another option you could have (depending on how much AMD will charge on these) is waiting for the newer AMD CPUs to come out. History says that AMD is the "bangs for the bucks" brand in CPUs so it might be worth waiting if you can.
Yes I agree with the rest of the users. Wait for the newer AMD CPUs to come out and provided AMD doesn't jack up the price they will finally be AMD processors made to game on the budget.
I am personally not happy with Intel CPUs' price marks (noticeably more on the higher end insanely priced E Intel CPUs).
Now of days you don't even need to worry about Windows licenses given there actually quite interesting Linux distributions sure to please. Even Window users can use one of these with just a little helping hand on their side. Such as starting with compatible components known to have drivers for Linux based OSes. :)
Whether your looking for budget systems orientated starting at just around $500. Using well valued AMD processors and APUs to the top end gaming and workstations systems made to take just about anything thrown at them.
You can let me know and
you can leave the building of your system, installation of software, and set up to me.
Receive your system ready to use, just plug it in and it ready for your uses!
Contact me at email@example.com or contact me right here on the forums for more information.
All Payments are processed by the use of Paypal, proof of built internal and external hardware will be provided prior to shipping it off to the customer proving that the system was assembled and setup to their requirements. Finally since the customer will be in control of shipping charges he/she will has to provide shipping requirements (express/standard/budget/etc) then which I will quote for prior to requesting payment and starting the servicing.
First thing I would do is backup that outlook database file. Preferably twice. That way there's no risk of losing all your emails. My question is... how is your emails connected? If you're using IMAP or Exchange you only need to go to the new PC and setup the email accounts. Then emails will automatically be retrieved from the server to the new system. Are you using POP3 or something?